LlbKAHY Uh CONGRESS 





013 964 911 4 A 



Hollinger Corp. 
P H8.5 



f6 



■ja-a- 



B=<— 



W»m»>mmMM,»>>W - >. ' ";' ! - """" ■' ■'■"<. -' :■ • ■ • " ■" ■■ . ^r- Ty . ■ ;, !■,.■ n yy; .... TTTTT ;— ,. , ■ , .. . , ,„ , ■ |t , , , , , , „ ,,, , 








HTHORFS^ 



■^r. 



^:ttt" 





-op- 



-^* 



j. Dress GuMimg.^ 



■• < ^^>" 



Invented by THEODORE THORP. 



k 



'ib 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by THEODORE THORP, in the Office of the 

Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 






CAUTION.— NOTICE, 



re ) 



The public are hereby notified that any infringement of this System will 
be promptly prosecuted in the United States Courts. 



A. S"ST ST DSDVC 



FOR — 




t rY^\ rj^\ 



T 




1 



T^ f"M 









*- 



ENTS. 



INVENTED BY 



THEODORE THORP. 



THIS SYSTEM CONSISTS OF INSTRUCTION AND 

MEASURE BOOKS. WAIST SCALES, SQUARE, 

PATTERNS AND SLEEVE. 



REMITTANCES 

"Should be made by Draft, Check, Post- Office Money Order, or Registered ' Letter. 
Money sent in unregistered letters is at the sender's risk. In ordering be particular in 
writing the name of Town, County and State ; also sign your name in a plain hand. 

All communications should be addressed, until further notice, to 

THEODORE THORP, 



2J/.2 Bleecker Street, 



New York, JY. Y 



In the near future Mr. Thorp will open an office in New York, and the exact date 
will be published in " Harper 's Bazar. 1 '' 

Dress Makers are cordially invited to cadi, as he will keep on hand a choice selection 
of Imported Fashion Magazines, Paper Patterns, Etc., and will also conduct a Purchas- 
ing Agency that Dress Makers can positively depend upon. 

Local and Traveling Agents Wanted in Every State. 




Pirections for jVIeasurement. 



Tie a string tight around the waist and roll it down to the smallest part. 

Place a pin in the dress at back of the neck ]/ 2 inch above the prominent neck bone 

Place the small square under the arm in front, high as possible and level. Then 
stick a pin in the dress at the point marked " Pin;" next do the same at the back of 
the arm. 

First Length of Back. From the pin at the back of the neck to the string. 

Second. Under Ann, Quite high, then down to the string on the hip. 

Third. Bust, From center of front at the fullest part to the center of back 

quite loose. 

Fourth, Width of Back. From center of back to the pin at the back of the 
arm— tight. 

Fifth. Width of Front. From the fullest, part of the bust to the pin in front of 
the arm — medium. 

Sixth. H eighth of Neck, From the pin in front of arm straight to the pin a f 
the back of the neck— easy. 

Seventh. Armhcle. Obtain this measure by passing the tape line around the sleeve 
head with the hand resting on the hip — very tight. 

Eighth. Waist. Measure around the smallest part of the waist — quite tight. The 
dress will make up one inch larger than the measure taken. 

Ninth, Length of Front. From the neck down to the string— loose. 

Tenth. Sleeve. By raising the arm in form of a square and measure from the 
center of the back to the elbow, by deducting the previous measure of the back you 
have the actual length of sleeve required. Next measure around the arm up high, 
also around the elbow. 

For the length, from elbow to wrist, add 9 inches for short and 10 inches for a long 
sleeve. 



Diagram No. i. 





BUST. 


i( 


° < 


^ G 

, 

z 

F 


■ . ■ 
i 






■ 


B 

i 


LENGTH UNDER A 
OF0ACK AR M 



Place the square on the paper with the long arm towards you, and the short end 
about 4 inches from the top, then draw a line the length of the long arm, and mark it 
A, next draw a line by the short arm and mark it B, without moving the square. Dot 
on line A the " Length of back" — then draw line C or waist line from this dot. 

Dot on line A above line C, the " under arm measure" and draw line D from 
this dot. 

Extend lines B, C and D to the actual measure of the Bust and draw line E. 

Dot on line D from A the " width of back" and draw line F from this dot to line B. 

Dot on line D from E the zuidth of front, and draw line G to B. 

Dot on line D one inch back of line G, and draw line H from this dot to C. 

For the spring of the back dot ]/^ inch on line C from A and draw a line from this 
d )t to line D, when it joins line A. 



Diagram No. 2, Tight-Fitting Basque 




Take a waist scale corresponding in number with the actual waist measure and place 
the scale on line C, with the cross at the line made for the spring of the back, and dot at 
No. 3 for the width of the back. Next dot y 2 or ^ of an inch back of line H. 
Reverse the scale and place the cross on this dot, and dot at No. 5, then dot one 
inch and place the cross on this dot and dot from No. 5. 

Next curve for the neck from pattern No. 1, by placing lines A and R together. 

Curve the back and side body of the armhoie from pattern No. 1 by placing the 
lower end of the side body on line D, with the back straight on line F, then curve lor 
both and dot for width of side body at letter S, next draw the shoulder seam from the 
dot at the neck to the top dot on line F. 

To curve the back, place the double XX on the square at the point marked double 
XX on pattern No. 1, then draw a curve to dot No. 3 on line C. 

Place your finger on the curve directly over line D and move the square forward to dot 
No. 5, and draw the back curve of the side body. Move the square to the dot made for 
the width of the side body near line D, and draw a curve for the front of the side body 
to the next dot on line C, 

Complete the curve of the armhoie to line G, as indicated in diagram No. 2, then 
draw a straight line, with the straight edge of the square, from the side body at the 
armhoie to the remaining No. 5 dot on line C. 



Next draw a line from the y 2 or ^ inch dot on line C to line H at the armhole — 
which is the 3rd dart. 

Take pattern No. 2 and curve the skirt of the back by keeping the top of the pattern 
even with line C, with the back corner at the dot made for the spring, then draw line for 
back. For the front line place the opposite corner at dot No. 3. 

Dot on line B from G, 3%' inches, and draw line K about four inches long. Dot on 
line K, the " height of neck'' starting from the pin in front of the arm ; dot on line 
K 1 y 2 inches down from this last dot, which is the shoulder point. 

Dot on line B half way between lines F and G, and curve the armhole from this dot 
crossing line G about y 2 inch as indicated on the diagram. Curve from pattern No 1. 
by placing A on the pattern at the dot on line B, measure the armhole by commencing 
at the corner of the back and measure round towards the dot on line B, then dot at the 
size required, draw the shoulder seam from this dot to the shoulder point on line K 
measure the shoulder seam of the back and make the front the same length, then change 
the curve of the armhole to correspond with the length of the shoulder. 

For the neck, dot 4^ inches from the top dot on line K and draw line M. Place 
pattern No. 1, marked N, at the shoulder point with the curve resting on line M, then 
dot at 6 x / 2 for neck, if the neck is larger, dot at 7. Draw a line from this dot to line D 
where it joins E. 

Dot from line E, about nine inches below D, the same amount of space that remains 
between line E and the neck, and draw a line from this point to the fullest part of the 
bust, which is the front of the waist. 

Dot on line H 1 y 2 inches and draw a line from this dot over to line E, 3 inches 
below line D, for the top of the darts. 

Measure from the neck down on the outside line and dot for the length of the front 
and draw a line from this dot over gradually to the 3rd dart. Place the cross on the 
waist scale at line H and dot at No. 7. 

Reverse the scale with the cross on the front line and dot at No. 4. 

Place the pencil at the center of the space remaining, then place No. 1 of the scale 
up to the pencil, now dot at the cross and No. 2. 

Draw a straight line through the center of each dart, up and down. Place the 
curve on the square marked MM at the top and curve for both darts, for the opposite 
side of the darts reverse the square. Extend the darts to a point 10 inches below the 
waist. For the front skirt of the 3rd dart, trace from pattern No. 4 reversed. Curve 
the shoulder seam as indicated. Dot on the armhole where the curve crossed lineG; the 
under seam of the sleeve sews in at this place. 

Cut out the back, including the skirt, on the lines, also the side-body and under-arm 
gore ; the last two cut off on line C. Pin on a piece of paper and trace the skirt of the 
side-body from pattern No. 3, in the same manner as the one for the back. The skirt of 
the under-arm gore trace from pattern No. 4. (See skirts in diagram No. 3). 



Diagram No. 3. 




Directions for Cutting and Basting. 



To trace the lining of the front, keep the edge from the neck to the fullest part of 
the bust straight with the cloth — -the remaining part will be bias ; keep line C perfectly 
straight with the cross threads of the lining on both side-body and under-arm gore. 
Always keep the center of back straight for all materials that have lines running 
cross-wise. 

Trace accurately at the edges of each part ; cut out the lining and allow for seams as 
represented in diagram No. 3. 

Cut the outside material the same size as the lining, then place the lining and 
material together on a lap board and baste quite fine all through the body, after that 
baste all pieces accurately on the tracing. • 

To baste the seams together, always commence at the top, and baste down evenly, 
except in places marked 000000, then it is to be held full. Where marked with crosses 
hold the goods tight or stretch a trifle. 

In basting the laj s, fold the goods one-quarter of an inch outside of the tracing on 
the button hole side. The buttons and holes should be directly on the tracing. This is 
important. 

— *<►♦ — 



Miscellaneous. 



To make the darts, pitch back at the top, slant the center line in that direction. 

To make the front dart smaller than the second, move the two numbers on the scale 
forward a little. 

To make the back wider, dot at 35^ or 4» but the extra addition must be deducted 
from the side-body. To make the back narrower, reverse the above by dotting at 2 or 
2)/ 2 and add the extra to the side-body. 

In drafting a pattern, any size or style, there should always be 13 numbers of the 
scale on each side of line H. 

For a person that is full in front below the waist, curve the darts, also the front, 
outwards. 

Great care should be observed in stitching theseams accurately, and the fitting should 
be arranged to allow for stitching either on the outside or inside of the basting. 

Cut a notch in the front edge of the under-arm gore. It is hard to tell which is the 
front or back after the material is cut. 

All seams should be opened and the edges neatly overcasted. 

In cutting velvet, or goods that are figured or have a nap or pile, be careful to cut 
all the parts the same way of the goods, that is, with the nap running downward and 
figure or pile of velvet running upward or downward, whichever is preferred. Velvet 



with the pile running upward, has a much nicer appearance than running in the oppo- 
site direction. In cutting striped or plaids for the back be sure they match and use 
special care that the side-body and side forms correspond. This can always be accom- 
plished by moving the goods a little one way or the other. 

By making a scale holder they can be kept together with less liability of losing, 
and when drafting, the one desired can be selected in a moment by glancing at the figures 
on the end, which are numbered 20, 20^, 21, 2i*/£ and so on. Thus the scale bearing 
the number 20 at the end is used in drafting for a waist of that size, combining expediency 
and accuracy. 

Striped material, cut bias in the back, has a tendency to make the waist appear 
smaller, also the same effect in front at the waist. 

For a Polonaise, Wrapper or any garment with a skirt, extend the lines with a 
straight edge as represented by the dotted lines in diagram No. 3. 

To make a loose house, dress or sacque, draft in the same manner as for a tight fitting 
waist, excepting at the waist line use one inch larger scale for a medium ; to make it very 
loose, use one two inches larger, and so on. In making an outside, tight-fitting jacket, 
draft the same, only use a half-inch larger scale, and instead of tracing, mark the outline 
with chalk, that will make it sufficiently loose to fit over a dress. 

To eradicate the dart seams extending half way down the skirts of wrappers, etc., 
pin up the darts in the lining about one-half, then place on the outside material smooth, 
and in basting the darts together, they will be full size on the lining only, and the seams 
will extend only six inches or so below the waist in the outside material. 

Dresses that open in the back take up a small V in the lining of the front at the 
neck, and then make the line in front of line E perfectly straight from the neck, through 
the fullest part of the bust to the bottom of the skirt. 

Dress-makers furnished with systems at wholesale prices, for apprentices. 

Buy manilla paper, twenty pound weight, 24x36 in size. 

If any of the following defects appear in the dresses when fitting, try to remedy the 
cause in your second dress by altering the figures in the measure book. 

Always take a short measure for length of back as it is easier to make longer. If 
the measure is not high enough under the arm, it will interfere in raising the arm when 
the sleeve is in. The width of front must be taken loose as the bust measure. Height 
of neck if taken very tight, will draw diagonally from the neck to the armhole and break- 
crosswise at the armhole in front. 

If the armhole measure is taken too loose, it will give surplus cloth on the shoulder 
from the armhole half way to the neck. 

If the waist measure is taken too loose the dress will be loose all round and up to 
the arm. 

If you spring the back to much it will cause a fullness at the center of the back. 

If you should place the cross of the waist scale on line E instead of the outside 
line, you will be obliged to make a V in the lining at the fullest part of the bust. 

Always take the armhole measure in even inches, 14, 15, 16 and so on. 



IO 



DIAGRAM No. 4. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 964 911 4 




TIGHT FITTING WAIST, WITH FRENCH BACK AND ONE DART. 

Draft just the same, with the following alterations: Make the width of the back at 
the armhole broader, that will bring the side seam lower down. 

Use the numbers as represented in diagram for the waist. In some figures the darts 
are immense ; in that case there should be two darts by rights. To make the one dart 
smaller, curve the front and the third dart, then dot at 8 and 5. If it is not small enough 
then, pitch the shoulder 4^ inches in place ot 3^ on line B, that will make the dart 
smaller, but in some figures it will leave a fullness at the armhole in front. 

DIRECTIONS FOR SLEEVE. 

Take a sleeve pattern corresponding in number with the armhole measure, and make 
a duplicate. The sleeve head is correct in size, and for fullness add all you need to the 
top without changing the seams. Place the tape line, with the width of back, at the back 
seam and dot for the length of the elbow. 

Prove the size around the elbow by altering the back seam to correspond with the 
measure taken. Prove the upper part in the same manner without changing the corners. 

To baste in the sleeve, fasten the under seam to the front notch, also fasten the two 
back seams together. To remedy a sleeve with the under seam twisting over on the 
outside, rip the back seam and raise the under part about one-half inch. 

To baste the sleeve together, commence at top. Allow all seams outside and baste 
on the tracing. 



V 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 






013 964 911 4 A 



Hollinger Corp. 
P H8.5 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 964 911 4 ft 



Hollinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



